WHAT A BEAUTIFUL GIRL !
GIANI & GINGY
F1: First Generation
This is the classic first generation Goldendoodle! They are 50% Golden Retriever X 50% Poodle. The F1 will Shed, Some shed more than others, some and have wavy coats that can vary from scruffy waves to thick shaggy waves. F1's have the strongest hybrid vigor of all the generations. An F1 might be an option for mild allergy sufferers.
F1B: First Generation Back-Cross
F1 Goldendoodle X Poodle
F1 Goldendoodle X Golden Retriever
An F1B is an F1 back-crossed with one of the foundation breeds, and it is nearly always a back cross between a Goldendoodle and Poodle to produce a more allergy friendly doodle, usually low shedding. F1B's that have a poodle parent are 75% Poodle and 25% Golden Retriever. They tend to have thick wavy or curly coats. When a Golden Retriever is used as a back-cross, expect shedding coats and even flat coats! An F1B back-cross with a Golden Retriever would be less allergy friendly than an F1.
F1BB: First Generation Double Back-Cross
F1B X Poodle
F1B X Golden Retriever
An F1BB is when an F1 has been back-crossed twice! One of it's parents are an F1B, and the other is a purebred. Make sure and ask what type of F1B the Goldendoodle parent is, if it is the same breed as the purebred parent, then the pup will be almost 90% of one purebred!
F2: Second Generation
F1 X F1
An F2 is 50% Golden Retriever and 50% Poodle. Some F2 puppies will have "flat coats" and " Inconsistent Coats" (short hair on their faces with a similar look to a Golden Retriever), while others will be curly! There is lots of variation of what you may get from an F2 puppy, so if you are picky about what you want in a pup, an F2 may not be for you!
F2B: Second Generation Back-Cross
F1 X F1B
This pairing usually produces puppies that are 60% Poodle to 40% Golden Retriever, a great blend to make sure your doodle has a great coat. Make sure that the F1B parent is CLEAR for Inconsistent Coat, or you risk getting a pup with short hair on its face! If the F1B parent is a doodle/retriever back-cross,
then the puppies will be 60% Retriever, and half of the puppies will have short hair on their faces and they will shed.
F1 = Poodle X Golden Retriever --
F1B = F1 X Poodle or F1 X Golden Retriever
F1BB = F1B X Poodle or F1BX Golden Retriever
F2 = F1 X F1
F2B = F1B X F1 or F2 X Poodle or F2 X Golden Retriever.
F2BB = F2B X Poodle or F2B X Golden Retriever or F1BB X F1
F3 = F2 X F1 or F1B X F1B
F3B = F3B X Poodle or F3 X Golden Retriever or F1B X F2 or F2B X F1
F3BB= F3B X Golden Retriever or F3B X Poodle or F2b X F1b or F2BB X F1 or F1B X F2B
F4 = F2 X F2 or F1 X F3.
F4B = F4 X Poodle or F4 X Golden Retriever F2 X F2bB OR F1B X F3 or F3B X F1.
F4BB = F4B X Poodle or F4BX Golden Retriever or F1B X F3B or F1BB X F3 or F3BB X F1 or F2 X F2BB===============================================================================
---- PET DEPOSITS ARE $250 AND DO APPLY TOWARDS THE PUPPY COST ----
**** BREEDER DEPOSITS ARE $500 ****
WE DO ACCEPT PARTIAL DEPOSITS AS WELL ---- BUT FULL DEPOSIT MUST BE RECEIVED WITHIN 3 DAYS OF PUPPIES BEING BORN
** 1ST PICK, 2ND, 3RD, 4TH PICK ECT WILL BE IN THE ORDER DEPOSITS ARE
PLACED !! **
ALL DEPOSITS CAN BE TRANSFERRED OVER TO THE NEXT AVAILABLE
LITTER IF IN CASE NEEDED !
-- PARENTS ARE 100% POODLE & - DNA TESTED --
( STANDARDS WILL AVERAGE ABOUT 55-75 LBS WHEN GROWN )
- OUR MOYENS WILL AVERAGE ABOUT 20 - 35 POUNDS WHEN GROWN -
**** ALL PUPPIES GO HOME WITH A 24 MONTH HEALTH GUARANTEE ****
PUPPIES WILL HAVE DEWCLAWS & TAILS DOCKED BY OUR VET & INCLUDED IN PRICE !
INFORMATIONAL INFO BELOW !
*** EVERY BREEDER HAS THEIR OWN PARTICULAR PRACTICES ON TAIL DOCKING AND DEWCLAWS ***
ALL OUR PUPPIES WILL HAVE THEIR DEWCLAWS AND TAILS DOCKED PER BREED STANDARDS PER OUR LICENSED VET, IF DEWCLAWS ARE NOT DONE THAT WILL CAUSE AND LEAD TO FUTURE HEALTH ISSUES DOWN THE ROAD.
Tail docking refers to the removal of a portion of the tail. The length that is docked varies depending on the breed.
Dogs with docked tails include Cocker Spaniels, Rottweilers, and Yorkshire Terriers. Currently 62 breeds recognized
by the AKC have docked tails. Some dogs, such as the Old English Sheepdog and Australian Shepherd, may appear to be docked, but may have actually been born with a “bobtail”, or naturally short tail. Dewclaw removal is a procedure by which the dewclaws, which are essentially extra claws that serve little to no purpose for the majority of dogs, are
removed. Most dogs are born with dewclaws. Tail docking and dewclaw removal are performed shortly after birth, when the puppy’s nervous system is not fully developed. As a result, the puppy feels little to no pain, and there are NO lasting negative health issues. Some lawmakers have sought to require anesthesia or these procedures. However, since they are performed so soon after birth, anesthesia should not
be required, as this could be life-threatening for the young puppy. Waiting until they are old enough to handle
anesthesia would actually result in a more painful and traumatic procedure. Much of the opposition regarding these procedures comes from a misunderstanding of why and how they are performed. Many believe that these
procedures are painful, performed purely for convenience or cosmetic reasons and have no value. This is completely false. In fact, these practices are significantly less painful and much less physically traumatic for the dogs
than common surgeries such as spaying and neutering. Each of these procedures is a safe, humane standard practice that serves a practical purpose, and in the case of ear cropping and tail docking, preserves a dog’s ability to perform its historic function. Practical Considerations Like ear cropping and tail docking, dewclaw removal and debarking serve a practical purpose. These are not procedures of convenience, but rather safe and standard animal husbandry practices designed to protect the safety and welfare of dogs. For most dogs, a “dewclaw” is essentially
an extra claw. While a few dogs, such as the Norwegian Lundehund, use them to scale rocky cliffs, the dewclaw serves virtually no purpose for most dogs. Working or other active dogs are prone to getting them caught and torn, causing extreme pain and significant injury. For these cases, it is better for them to be removed shortly after birth, where there is little or no pain, rather than to risk serious injury and infection later.
WE DO ENCOURAGE BREEDERS TO START TAKING THE INITIATIVE IN BEING RESPONSIBLE FOR THE LIVES THEY CREATE, PLEASE PLACE ALL YOUR PUPS GOING AS PETS FULLY VETTED !!!!!!
A SIMPLE SPAY/NEUTER CONTRACT IS NOT ENOUGH NOR SUFFICIENT AND WILL NOT GUARANTEE UNAUTHORIZED BREEDING PRACTICES, AVOID FUTURE HEALTH ISSUES TO THE BREED AND STOP UNAUTHORIZED BREEDING PRACTICES WHICH CAN HURT THE BREED DOWN THE ROAD. EARLY SPAYING/NEUTERING IS TOTALLY SAFE AND STOPS THE "URGES " FOR YOUR FUZZY TO ESCAPE
FACTS !!! SPAYING AND NEUTERING DOES NOT AFFECT HORMONES AT ALL, On the other hand, current research does show that spaying before the first heat prevents the development of mammary gland tumors. Since females can go into heat as young as four months of age, they should be spayed before then to receive that protection. If you have a male, you should know that neutering Before 4 months of age will prevent testicular tumors and may prevent prostate problems. It also reduces the possibility of perianal tumors and hernias.
Early-age, or pediatric neutering is currently performed on animals who are six to eight weeks of age and who weigh at least two pounds, at local animal shelters (spca) this is totally safe is highly recommended to avoid FUTURE HEALTH ISSUES.
Many veterinarians now perform these procedures. The surgery is faster, the perioperative complication rate is lower—even the healing time is much shorter than in adult animals. AND IT IS SAFE. We prefer to have it done @ 9 weeks of age
*** NEW LAWS IN MANY CITIES & IN VARIOUS STATES DO NOW MANDATES & REQUIRE THAT PETS BEING . . . . . . . . "SOLD-REHOMED-PLACED AS PETS " NOW MUST GO HOME FULLY VETTED /MICROCHIPPED, UNLESS GOING AS A BREEDER ALL PUPPIES PLACED AS PETS GO HOME FULLY VETTED !! ***